Help Center

Find answers to common questions about Pool Clarity

🧪 Chemistry Quick Reference

ParameterIdeal RangeWhat It Does
Free Chlorine1-3 ppmKills bacteria and algae
pH7.4-7.6Affects chlorine effectiveness and comfort
Total Alkalinity80-120 ppmStabilizes pH from bouncing around
Calcium Hardness200-400 ppmProtects pool surfaces from corrosion
CYA (Stabilizer)30-50 ppmProtects chlorine from UV sunlight
Salt (saltwater)2700-3400 ppmFeeds the chlorine generator
Total Chlorine1-4 ppmShould match Free Chlorine. If TC minus FC is over 0.5, shock your pool.
Getting Started

How do I set up my pool profile?

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After signing up, you'll be guided through a 3-step setup: choose your location and pool type, select your sanitizer system, then enter your pool dimensions or known volume. This information personalizes all your calculations.

Getting Started

What test kit or strips do I need?

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Any basic pool test kit or strips will work. We support: Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer), and Salt Level (for saltwater pools). You don't need to enter all readings. Enter whatever your test kit measures.

Getting Started

Do I need to know a lot about pool chemistry?

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Not at all. That's the whole point of Pool Clarity. Enter your test results and we'll tell you in plain English what's off and exactly what to do about it. We calculate specific amounts for your pool size.

Getting Started

How often should I test my water?

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At minimum, once per week. In hot climates (especially Florida and the southern states), 2-3 times per week is better. Always test after heavy rain, adding chemicals, a pool party, or noticing any changes in water clarity.

Pool Chemistry

What order should I adjust chemicals?

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Always in this order: 1) Total Alkalinity first (it stabilizes pH), 2) pH, 3) Calcium Hardness, 4) Cyanuric Acid, 5) Chlorine last. Pool Clarity automatically sorts your recommendations in the correct order.

Pool Chemistry

What is CYA (Cyanuric Acid) and why does it matter?

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CYA is "sunscreen for chlorine." It protects chlorine from being destroyed by UV sunlight. Without enough CYA, you might be adding chlorine that burns off within hours. Too much CYA, however, actually suppresses chlorine effectiveness. The only way to lower CYA is to partially drain and refill.

Pool Chemistry

My chlorine tests fine but my pool looks cloudy. Why?

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Cloudiness usually means high pH (above 7.8), high calcium hardness, or high total alkalinity. It can also indicate poor filtration. Check your filter pressure and clean/backwash if needed. Pool Clarity will flag these issues when you enter your readings.

Pool Chemistry

What's the difference between Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine?

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Free Chlorine (FC) is the "active" chlorine available to kill bacteria and algae. Total Chlorine (TC) is the sum of Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine (used-up chlorine). If TC and FC are equal, there are no chloramines. If TC is more than 0.5 ppm higher than FC, the difference is combined chlorine, which causes the "chlorine smell" and eye irritation. Time to shock your pool.

Pool Chemistry

I have a screened pool. Does that change anything?

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Yes! Screened pools get less UV exposure, so chlorine lasts longer and you need slightly less CYA. They also collect less debris, but the screen enclosure creates a microclimate that can trap heat and humidity. Pool Clarity accounts for this in your recommendations.

Pro Features

What does the Service Report Card do?

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If you have a pool service, the Report Card tracks water quality after each visit. Over time, it shows whether your service consistently keeps your water balanced or lets things slide. It helps you decide if you're getting your money's worth.

Pro Features

What is the Cost Tracker?

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The Cost Tracker lets you log what you spend on pool service, chemicals, and maintenance. It compares your spending and can show potential savings from DIY maintenance. Many pool owners save $750-1,900/year by managing their own chemistry.

Pro Features

How does the maintenance schedule work?

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Pro users get a customized maintenance schedule based on their pool type, location, and climate. It includes reminders for filter cleaning, equipment checks, seasonal tasks, and more.

Pro Features

What's the difference between Free and Pro?

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Free includes: pool profile, chemistry calculator with dosing, assessments, basic tips, and last 5 readings. Pro adds: unlimited history, service visit tracking, service report card, trend charts, maintenance schedule, cost tracker, and the full advice library.

Account & Settings

How do I upgrade to Pro?

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From your dashboard, click the "Upgrade to Pro" card in the sidebar. It's a one-time payment of $14.99 for lifetime access. No subscriptions or recurring charges.

Account & Settings

Can I change my pool profile later?

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Yes! Go to Pool Setup from your dashboard navigation to update your pool type, size, location, or any other details at any time.

Account & Settings

How do I delete my account?

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Go to Account Settings and scroll to the bottom. Click "I want to delete my account" and confirm with your password. This permanently deletes all your data.

Account & Settings

Is my data private?

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Yes. We don't sell your data, show ads, or use tracking cookies. Your pool readings and profile are only accessible to you. You can delete everything at any time.

Troubleshooting

My calculations seem off. What should I check?

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First, verify your pool volume in Pool Setup. An incorrect volume will make all dosing calculations wrong. Second, make sure you're entering readings in the correct units (ppm for most, no units for pH). Third, re-test your water to confirm your readings.

Troubleshooting

I added the recommended chemicals but my levels didn't change.

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Always wait the recommended time before retesting (usually 4-6 hours with the pump running). Some chemicals like CYA can take 3-5 days to fully dissolve. If levels still haven't changed, your test kit may need fresh reagents or your pump may not be circulating properly.

Troubleshooting

My pH keeps going up even after I lower it.

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This is usually caused by high Total Alkalinity. TA acts as a pH buffer and pushes pH upward. Lower your TA first using the acid-and-aerate method (add acid to lower pH to 7.0-7.2, then aerate to raise pH without raising TA). Pool Clarity will guide you through this.

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